A Slow Week in West Wales
I have a weird relationship with traveling: when I return from somewhere I spend a significant amount of time pining for the places I have visited. I find it so easy to slip into living like a local when I’m away, instantly forgetting amount work and my usual daily life and throwing myself into a routine of daily swims, eating local food and finding the best spots to sit and read. I forget that I’m on a holiday, and that I’ll have to return to normal life.
It was this way with my recent trip to West Wales. We moved around quite a bit (one night camping close to Cardigan, two nights at Fforest, two nights camping in Pembrokeshire) but I soon settled into new routines. I quickly grew used to waking early in a hot tent and relocating outside to sit on the grass with a book and a bowl of cereal. Mornings were spent exploring, visiting nearby beaches, swimming in the sea and dining out for lunch - whereas afternoons were slow and languid, returning to where we were staying to lounge around reading or preparing dinner. Most nights we cooked on a fire, reaching for blankets when the temperatures cooled.
I’ve subsequently spent the past month daydreaming of that trip, and what life would be like if I lived by the coast in West Wales, swimming in the sea every day. I love where I live, but find myself getting stuck in this nostalgia, falling in love quickly with the places I visit. I often find myself proclaiming that I’ll make annual trips to my favourite destinations, and although this obviously isn’t always possible, West Wales is definitely somewhere that I’ll find myself returning to over and over again; especially Cardigan and Fforest, which I particularly fell in love with. Here are my recommendations for what to do if you’re planning your own trip to this area.
Recommendations for Cardigan & Pembrokeshire
I visited places marked with an * as part of a previous paid partnership with Visit Wales, but this blog post is not sponsored in any way.
Where to stay
Fforest - aka My Favourite Place in the UK. We stayed in a Garden Shac, which was magical but I’d like to try out all their different types of accommodation. You can read more about my stay here.
Mill Haven Place campsite - We stayed here for two nights and loved how tranquil it felt. I always try to book campsites that are part of the Greener Camping Club, and prefer to camp places that feel a little wilder than a big open field that’s packed with tents. I loved how you had your own little plot here with a picnic bench and firepit. They also have cute cottages, caravans, yurts and bell tents available to book.
Nant-y-Croi Farm campsite - This isn’t my favourite type of campsite (it’s basically a big field where you camp around the edges, and I imagine it gets very full in school holidays) but I loved the location. You can see the sea and watch the sunset from your pitch, and it’s just a short stroll down the fields to get to the coastal path. We walked to Mwnt beach (see below) the morning after we stayed here, which was a really pleasant short stroll down the coast.
The Druidstone Hotel - Don’t take my word for it, as we didn’t actually stay here but it looks incredible! We tried to visit their bar one night, to discover that it’s only open for residents and locals. I then spent a lot of time daydreaming about staying here: watching the sunset from their enviable spot on the edge of the cliffs, relaxing in a hammock in the garden, and staying in either one of the hotel rooms or separate guest cottages - all of which look lovely. I’m hoping to book a stay here next time we visit the area.
Llys Meddyg* - I stayed here a few years ago when I was working on an assignment for Visit Wales. You can read more about that trip here, but in short, I absolutely loved it. The rooms are snug and cosy, the downstairs bar is great for drinking cocktails in the evenings, and their hidden restaurant and kitchen gardens tucked away behind the hotel were wonderful. They offer foraging experiences, which I highly recommend.
Places to eat & drink
Pizza Tipi, Cardigan - If you’re visiting Cardigan you absolutely have to book a meal here. True story: I booked an extra night camping at the beginning of our trip when I realise it would be closed during our stay at Fforest. Delicious pizzas, the best garlic bread I’ve ever had and really tasty salads. You visit here as much for the location as the food though - it’s located on the bank of the mouth of the Teifi with some tables right by the water and others all snug and cosy inside the tipi.
Crwst, Cardigan - aka The Best Brunch I Had In Wales. Honestly, this place is great. I imagine it gets busy in the height of summer, but we didn’t book and had no problems just turning up and finding a table. I had a massive wedge of sourdough with their homemade beans, avocado and feta, completed by a side of their iconic hash brown bites. Delicious!
Runwayskiln, Pembrokeshire - A word of warning if you fancy dining here: book ahead. We got lucky as we arrived right at the start of their lunch service and they squeezed us in on an outdoor table. Simple yet delicious food. I recommend the goats cheese on toast with a side of their chips (the best chips I had in Wales, I might add).
The Beach Hut, Llangrannog - We didn’t actually get to eat here, as we’d already eaten when we stopped by for a takeaway coffee, but I wish we had as their menu sounded delicious. It’s on my list for next time we’re in the area.
Caffi Patio, Llangrannog - Best ice cream parlour located right on the beach. Get a double scoop of the peach and the cherry.
The Shed, Porthgain* - I’ve eaten at The Shed twice on previous trips to Wales - once getting takeaway fish & chips and once dining in their restaurant when I was working with Visit Wales. I recommend booking a table for an evening meal in their restaurant and eating one of their delicious seafood mains.
MamGu Welshcakes, Solva - If you like Welshcakes, you have to make a stop here for brunch. Savoury welshcakes come as a side with most meals, but they also sell a selection of both sweet and savoury flavours at the counter to take away. I wish I’d bought a bag full of their signature cheese and leek delicacies.
Beaches to visit
Mwnt, Cardigan - This is a lovely little beach located close to Cardigan, perfect for a dip on a calm and sunny day. We visited on a chilly windy morning but I still managed to throw myself in the waves and splash around for a bit. No dogs during the summer months, but there was no one there on the morning we visited and we kept her on her lead.
Little Haven, Pembrokeshire - I really love this tiny village in Pembrokeshire. There’s not much there other than a scattering of pubs, but the small bay here is perfect for an evening swim. The water was really warm and shallow when I swam here.
Marloes Sands, Pembrokeshire - One of the most beautiful beaches in Wales, although I didn’t swim here. It’s vast and serene, dotted with huge boulders and thigh-deep rock pools that are perfect for splashing around in. I got in the water but the waves were huge and I’d read about rips here.
Llangrannog, north of Cardigan - This was my favourite place for a long swim during this trip. The drive to this beach is beautiful, winding down the cliffs through the trees. There’s a small carpark at the bottom but beware - there’s no internet signal and you have to pay with cash or via an app. I swam from this beach on our last day which was lovely, but the hidden bay around the corner is even better. The first day we visited (yes, we came here twice) the tide was on its way out and we waded around the corner to find an entire beach to ourselves. The water was clear and not too cold for a long swim.
Blue Lagoon, Abereiddy - This beautiful blue lagoon is a favourite for cliff jumping and coasteering, but I’ve always fancied a dip here. It’s on my list for our next trip. Be aware that seals birth their pups here so it’s sometimes closed to the public during the autumn months.
Solva, Pembrokeshire - Not for swimming, but just for a little wander around the cute town (great shops and galleries here) and admiring the beauty of the fjord.